Anyone with locavore leanings will love Yannick Alleno’s modern new bistro Terroir Parisien, which pays homage to the agriculture of Ile de France, the department surrounding Paris, and the somewhat forgotten cuisine of the region.
Alleno, a three-star Michelin chef, is known for championing local farmers and ingredients, first with his ¨Terroir Parisien¨menu at the Meurice and then with a beautiful book by the same name, which showcases his favorite producers in Ile de France and recipes from the region.
The menu at bistro Terroir Parisien is old school French and features dishes which have for the most part disappeared from Paris’s fashionable tables. Plates of artisanal charcuterie from Gilles Vérot, a wonderful onion soup “Les Halles” made with marrow and Gruyère, oeufs en gelée (eggs in aspic), a classic salad of frisée with poached egg and bacon, raie with capers and butter, stuffed cabbage, and a succulent Navarin printanier, a traditional lamb stew with spring vegetables.
His beautiful purple cabbage comes from Pontoise, the plump white asparagus from Argenteuil, his saffron comes from Gatinais, and the handpicked watercress from Méréville. The lamb is local and comes from Vincent Morisseau’s farm in Aufferville, his chickens are a special bread called Houdan, beautiful black birds that were prized in the 19th century that have all but disappeared from Paris’s markets. Come summer there’ll be cherries from Vernouillet and peaches from Montreuil.
For dessert there’s poached pears with “miel béton” or concrete honey, referring to its urban origins, and chocolate mousse with clementine confite, but I would go for the buttery Brioche “Nanterre” Perdu, or what Americans call French toast. After one taste, I don’t think I could order anything else–it was that good.
Another reason to like Terroir Parisien is they serve non-stop, seven days a week, so you can come during off hours for Alleno’s rendition of a hot dog or veau-chaud or a quick croque monsieur. There’s also a bar where you can dine while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen.
The food here is very good, the ingredients top-notch, and the prices more than fair, making this stylish new bistro a place I would gladly return to and recommend.
20 rue Saint Victor
01 44 31 54 54
Average price: 35-45 € for 3 courses, not including wine.
Open daily, non-stop.
View Larger Map